Ice Factor Blog

2012-01-29T11:51:00.000-08:00

This weekend turned into a bit of an Ice Factor staff reunion, with Jamie B climbing a mix of pitches on the Little Brenva Face with Rich and Jamie H, and Isi and Roddy heading for a wander up Ben Lomond. Both Bens were predictably busy with a Saturday of good weather!

Today Jamie B and Isi went to White Corries for some staff training - talking about skills teaching and how we do this in different situations, looking at the areas up there which are good to use and the local hazards - mostly skiers! We found some good firm snow for sliding around on, along with a layer of less consolidated fresh stuff on top. The skiing looked pretty good today too, although a bit thin in places.

D Gully Buttress and lots of snow!

2011-12-07T05:23:00.001-08:00

Well, winter has finally arrived up here, and it's making up for lost time by throwing down loads of the white stuff.
Jamie and Isi were out on the Buachaille yesterday and went for a swim/ flounder/ dig up D Gully Buttress. It gave good sport in the conditions. Although it was definitely white and wintery, in places the turf was not as secure as we'd have liked as it's been insulated by the snow. There is some ice around, some of which gave purchase but much of it is not thick enough yet.
We reckon that the top pitch is a bit of a sandbag at IV,4 and felt more like tech 5 - bold and slabby. A good lead by Jamie!
We came down Curved Ridge - thankfully some guys had already plowed a trench up this earlier in the day so we were only knee deep following it down!
First climb of the season and looking forward to plenty more...

Jamie B's last Munro

2011-10-31T16:47:00.000-07:00

When I picked the last weekend in October to complete my round of the Munros, I should probably have forecast that the weather might be a little "autumnal". In fact it was absolutely vile, and even the supposedly easy cycle in to Culra bothy wasn't. Nevertheless, despite my insistence that they really didn't have to follow me up the hill if they didn't want to, a motley collection braved horizontal and incessant rain to toast my last summit - the mighty Carn Dearg. The hip-flasks on the summit were much appreciated, but more so was the quick descent to the bothy and its welcoming fire.

We might have been a little at odds with the bothy code, which discourages groups, but Culra is in fact 3 bothys, or 3 seperate rooms in any case, so the 14 of us were able to co-exist with the other 4 hardy walkers in residence. In fact I think they were delighted by the amount of whisky and fuel for the fire that we'd brought in!

I'm feeling quietly pleased with myself now; Munro completion isnt the hardest, most physical or most risky of mountain adventures, but it does require a lot of dedication over a long time - 32 years to be precise! It's taken me into some of the wildest and remotest corners of the Scottish Highlands, which I might never have visited otherwise. But perhaps most of all, it's given me the pleasure of some fine company from my fellow hillgoers, a good number of whom braved the gusts and shared the craic on the 29th. Slainte to you all.

STS Tooling Competition Saturday 8th October

2011-10-11T04:17:00.001-07:00

The winners!

Dennis on his way to being the only person to complete Kev Shield's tough finals route.

Marianne on her way to winning the ladies competition - a strong performance which would have given her joint 2nd place in the mens!

Louise making the big moves on the first half of the finals route.

We always look forward to the Scottish Tooling Series round here at the Ice Factor. This time we had a full house of 60 competitors which gave a good buzz to the event without feeling crowded. Everyone tackled the 15 qualifying problems set around the building by Kev Shields and Karen McIntyre plus our own staff, and as usual there was a great supportive atmosphere.

Full results can be found at the STS Website

A righteous celebration followed up in the bar, with local band The Shine keeping us entertained. On balance, we think it's probably a good thing that our bar manager wouldn't let some of the competitors ski down the stairs!

We look forward to seeing folk again at the next round in a couple of weeks at Glenmore Lodge, and out on the hill as soon as the season begins.

Winter Is Coming...

2011-09-17T01:53:00.000-07:00

Here at the Ice Factor we're all starting to get psyched for the winter season again - it certainly doesn't feel like summer up here any more, with a bite in the air already and the hills starting to take on the purples and browns of Autumn. With that in mind, here's something you can enjoy with us to get you stoked too...

STS Dry Tooling Competition

We'll be hosting the first round of this annual competition this year. It isn't just an elite competition (although the 'great and the good' do often join in!), everyone who can safely weild an axe and effect a belay is welcome to come and give it a go. Whatever your level, we reckon you'll have never been so pumped in your life by the end of the day, it's great training for winter steepness.
Our sponsors Grivel are giving it their support and there will be Grivel and Scarpa gear available for hire on the day if you don't have your own shiny things to play with.
You can register to compete at http://www.scottishtoolingseries.co.uk/2011/09/sts2011-round-one-ice-factor/
Of course, if you'd rather come and watch you're very welcome. There is no entry fee to spectate and the cafe and bar will be open for public use - and for a party afterwards!
Please note that there will be no availability for rock & ice climbing other than the comp on this day as with up to 60 competitors in the building there just isn't space!

Indoor Ice

We run our ever-popular Hit the Ice courses most days at 2.15pm. This is a 2 hour intro to ice climbing and is suitable for adults wanting to move onto steeper ground or make the step from rock onto ice. Prices for this are currently £48 per person, which includes hire of all technical gear, and this can be booked by phone on 01855 831100.

If you are already a competent ice climber (we ask that people have climbed at least Scottish III or WI2 or have completed at least one session in the ice wall previously) then you can come and use the freezer for your own training. A 2 hour session costs £25 for a non-member, or £20 for a member. You may want to think about taking out a pass if you are in the area for a while - 1 month is just £35 and this includes an ice session each week as well as unlimited rock climbing. It is worth booking in advance for ice sessions to make sure there is room for you to climb!

Outdoor Courses

If you're keen to get into the winter wonderland that is Scotland this year, or are looking to move onto steeper ground then give us a shout. We'll be running skills courses and guiding throughout the winter. Drop us an email on info@ice-factor.co.uk if you would like further info on what we are able to offer.

Aonach Eagach Traverse (Tuesday 23rd February)

2010-02-26T13:13:00.000-08:00

Tuesday saw Isi, Dan, Chris and freelance instructor Lorraine making the most of the last day of the most recent settled spell in a traverse of the Aonach Eagach ridge above Glen Coe. Leaving the valley on a bitterly cold morning, we ascended into glorious sunshine and alpine-feeling conditions on the ridge. There was a well-beaten track of compacted snow and the rock where showing was dry and almost warm, making the route feel pretty friendly on this occasion.

Quite a few other folk were up enjoying the sun too - probably for the best given the change in weather and conditions since then! It's been a busy few days on centre with lots of guided groups opting to give the hills a miss and hit the ice wall, and for once I don't think any of the Ice Factor crew have begrudged being indoors at all! We're all just storing up sleep for when the snow settles and the sun returns...

4 Day Winter Skills

2010-02-24T10:25:00.001-08:00

Today was the last day of The Ice Factor's 4 day winter skills course led by Guy. This time the places were taken by members of the London Met Police Mountaineering Club, John, Dennis, Kirsty, David, Neil and Alice. They had great alpine weather on the first 3 days and real Scottish weather on the last. The group ranged from first time winter walkers through to old, rusty mountaineers. The first day was about safe movement around the mountains, weather and avalanche conditions, this was done on Buachaille Etive Beag (2 Munros). Day 2 we looked at ice axe arresting, moving safely on steeper ground, more weather and avalanche up at Aonach Mor. We then walked up to the summit (1 Munro). Day 3 was navigation day spent up in the Mamores (1 Munro), Day 4 was their day which they route planned and led throughout, putting together all the skills learnt over the last 3 days, this was done also in the Mamores (1 Corbett). So 4 Munroes, 1 Corbett and lots of skills learnt.

South Gully & Green Eyes

2010-02-18T13:53:00.000-08:00

Today, Jamie B & Isi went to Beinn Udlaidh for some low-level ice action and climbed South Gully of The Black Wall (IV) and then Green Eyes (IV,4). Both were in good condition - great neve, ice a little brittle in places but sound, cornices already broken through. Teams on lots of other things - including Peter Pan & the Direct and Quartzvein Scoop. Just another blue-sky day in the highlands...

Salamander Gully

2010-02-18T13:32:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Jamie B & Isi fought their way through the heavy overnight snowfall to Beinn an Dothaidh, where thankfully there was far less snow. We went up Salamander Gully, which had good neve on it in places, but the ice on the steep pitch was quite cruddy. It was arguably only the mention of skiing as a viable alternative which persuaded Jamie that it was a good idea to climb on! Amazing lighting on the way down - more pictures on Facebook.

Twisting Gully

2010-02-09T07:30:00.000-08:00

Isi & Gillian were out in Coire nan Lochan today and went up Twisting Gully (III,4) which was in great condition and has clearly seen quite a lot of traffic recently. Conditions were good - nice sticky snow, blue skies, hardly any wind - and there were teams out on (amongst other things) SC Gully, Boomerang Gully, at least 2 teams behind us on Twisting Gully. Dorsal Arete was mobbed, we counted at least 15 people on it from the coire on the way down. We came down Broad Gully which is well stepped out now too.

A wander up Cruach Ardrain

2010-02-02T10:59:00.000-08:00

Ali and Isi took a walk up Cruach Ardrain down near Crianlarich today and as you can see it was a lovely day on the hill. Sunshine and blue skies with fresh snow down to the valley in the morning, but thawing on the lower slopes during the day. When the sun shines like this you can forgive the weather pretty much anything! There are some more pictures on Facebook.

2010-01-28T01:29:00.000-08:00

Not superb conditions at all today. Winds between 30 and 35 mph, gusting 50mph further West. Clouds coming down and snow coming in, so windy with poor visibility and a rising temperature.
Also, stay away from East through to South facing aspects. 'Considerable' and 'High' avalanche warnings here, with localised avalance hazards (up to 'High') on every other aspect except North West slopes.

A group out with one of our instructors today in Coire na Tulaich, doing some winter skills and mountaineering. Hopefully get some pics up later today!

Ben Nevis Action

2009-03-17T13:37:00.000-07:00

Today 2 members from the Ice Factor team (Ben and Lorenzo) were out on the Ben. They reported excellent conditions, so good in fact that Ben managed to get tomorrow off work to go climbing again while the rest of us are packing the ice wall!! They soloed Good Friday Climb, then pitched Comb Gully and finished off on Central Gully, Right hand. Tomorrow they are heading back up there with their eyes on a specific route, Jamie B and Rich are also heading out to check out what the climbing conditions are like. Sorry no pictures today. Teams on Point 5, smiths, green etc. Sounds good!

Trip over to the East

2009-03-13T04:40:00.000-07:00

Yesterday the Ice factor team headed to the Norther corries for a days climbing. Ban and Graham firstly climbed Invernookie with the crowds then the nipped round and climbed The Seam. Good effort by them. They fancied another route but we had to get back for the Film Festival lecture. Guy and Jamie headed into Hell's Lum to climb Deep Cut Chimney, but without a vital piece of equipment, they could not climb, so the soloed Escalator. Strong winds and super light helmets don't go well! Today Ben (Captain Keen) is out walking in the snow somewhere and Jamie is out guiding on Ben Nevis.

Fresh Snow

2009-03-05T03:09:00.000-08:00

A busy day at the Ice Factor today as my local providers have booked into the ice wall with their clients. The snow just appears to be too hard work to wade through. Jamie B is currently over in the East doing his MIC Assesment with Glenmore Lodge, Chuck has headed out today with 2 clients to do some slipping and sliding and probably quite alot of wading!

Mountaineering last week

2009-02-28T13:43:00.000-08:00

Here is a video of our Winter Mountaineers in action last week.

2009-02-28T12:19:00.000-08:00

Today Guy was working up on Aonach Mor refreshing winter skills with Dave, Mark and Phil who are currently on a 4 day winter mountaineering course. Tomorrow they are out with Karl and Guy. Jamie B was also out today and Chuck had a team out winter walking.

Back to Ben Nevis

2009-02-24T12:36:00.001-08:00

The Observatory Gully area on Ben Nevis sounded very busy today as we were visited by several dozen participants from the BMC International meet. Coire na Ciste was relatively quiet when The Ice Factor team arrived. Karl took his guys up North Gully, Kenny did Central Right Hand and Al and his team went up No.3 Gully. The ice is still hanging in high up but the snow is still slowly receding- we really need the forecast cold spell, even if just for 24 hours.

2009-02-23T12:43:00.000-08:00

Kenny, Karl and Al were out with teams on Aonach Mor today looking at basic winter skills and winter mountaineering skills. The hill was very busy today with people looking at footwork and slipping and sliding in the soft wet snow at around 900-1000m on the Nid. There were a few patches of ice around for cramponing, some snow shelters of various types from past groups and old bucket seats and bollards everywhere. We're living in hope of a little snow and some much needed colder temperatures now.

A damp day on Ben Nevis

2009-02-21T09:46:00.000-08:00

Today was a wet day for the Ice Factor Team. Jamie B was on No. 2 Gully Buttress, Karl did the first pitch of Comb Gully Buttress, Ian did North Gully and Alan did South Gully. The forecast was right on the money regards rain and temperatures but the winds didn't quite get as high as expected. The coire was running with water but there is still a good deal of climbable ice around. A cooler forecast tomorrow will probably mean a busy day on Ben Nevis as things freeze above 900m. The gondola seemed to run all day today and it looked like there were plenty of climbers up Aonach Mor.

2009-02-14T10:27:00.000-08:00

Today Alan was out with Gordon looking at gear placement, belay construction and retreating from a multi-pitch climb. They went to Glen Nevis and climbed the Gutter. A slow thaw looks set to strip low lying snow and ice this week but there is the promise of colder north westerly winds later next week.

Winter Walking

2009-01-15T13:21:00.000-08:00

On Monday Lorenzo, Jamie and Guy headed into the mountains in search of snow and fine weather. As Guy has his Winter ML training coming up and Lorenzo has just completed his Summer ML, they decided to tick off a few Munroe's. They did a two day trip staying at Glenmore Bothy and ticked off Meall na Aighean, then up to Carn Mairg, across to Meall Garbh and finally to Carn Gorm. they descended via Glen Sassunn. Tuesdays weather was very cold, they experienced lots of hard packed snow ice on the tops as well as some layers of wind slab around. As there were quite high winds over night, there was quite a bit of riming present too.

Today Jamie headed out to the Cairngorms into Coire an t- Sneachda for a look but reported it to be quite mild so they didn't get on any routes. He was saying that there was ice around and a fair bit off white stuff, hoping its going to get colder over the next few days for conditions to improve.

Lochaber conditions

2009-01-04T04:12:00.000-08:00

The last couple of weeks we have been extremely cold so many ice routes have been in. Guy has been climbing on the Ben and Aonach Mor, taking advantage of the good ice conditions. Jamie B has been guiding on Ben Nevis and in Glencoe and climbing personally on the Ben and Aonach mor. Big Al has been balancing lots of climbing and work with spending time with his new son.
Routes such as Point 5, Green Gully, Comb gully, South Gully, North Gully, Smiths route, Tower ridge, Tower Scoop etc the list goes on. Many of the routes are getting chopped up, but still plenty to go for. See you out there.

Scottish Mixed Masters 2008

2008-12-14T12:10:00.000-08:00

On Saturday we held the finals of the Scottish tooling series, with an all-star cast attending and a hefty group of spectators, it equated to a good finish to an excellent series of competitions. We had several qualifying boulder problems as well as a very realistic route outside which all the competitors worked their way around. A couple of the climbers flashed all the routes, others ended up with arms like soggy newspapers and a handful just found some routes just too hard. After the qualifying boulder problems, the finalists went into isolation, coming out to tackle their routes up the articulated wall. The junior girls were first, then the boys and then the women followed. The juniors climbed on top ropes and the women had to lead. The veterans category were next with some awesome moves from the 'old boys'. The men's final was very tense, with 6 finalists, all showing great power and skill, not to mention some good 'whippers'! This was followed by a super final between Dave MacLeod and Tony Stone, who had both topped out on the final route. The crowd decided that the articulated wall should be cranked out as far as it can go and they have to lead up again! Some serious strength was demonstrated both by Tony and Dave but Dave came out on top, climbing one hold higher than Tony. A speed ice climbing competition followed with Blair Fyffe thrashing himself to the top. Top effort by everyone and we will hopefully do it all again next year.

Retreat and Success

2008-11-29T09:59:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Jamie B headed up the Ben with another Jamie to get a route in however as there was so much snow on the route they ended up retreating. Not quite sure what route they were on though. Sometimes when there is too much snow it make the climb really hard work and not very fun as you get snow down your top and up your sleeves.

Today Al and Guy went up curved ridge With Colin. This was his first ever winter climb which was given to him as a present through Red Letter Days. The snow was soft and un-consolidated and the turf underneath was not really frozen. See http://guysteven.blogspot.com/ for more info.

Lots of white stuff

2008-11-23T06:25:00.001-08:00

This was the snowfall from last night, it was a pleasant surprise as I walked into work! The rain thawed out the snow in Kinlochleven but high ground it is hanging in there. Very wild up on the tops, reports from some guys coming down from SCNL saying that it was too wild for them to get a route in. They booked into the sauna instead! They said lots and lots of snow has fallen, bring on the cold nights!

Winter Courses 08/09

2008-11-19T03:44:00.000-08:00

If you are interested in our winter courses this winter, get in touch. Courses can be from ticking off some winter Munroe's through to winter climbs on Ben Nevis (and everything in between!) We have courses of set dates and also the option of private courses where you can choose the date. Call the Ice Factor on 01855 831100 for more information or visit our website www.ice-factor.co.uk

NGB Courses

2008-11-19T03:36:00.000-08:00

Last week our instructor Lorenzo completed and passed his summer Mountain Leader Assessment so congratulation to you!! Guy has been down in Wales at Plas Y Brenin and completed his MIA training course. The winter briefly came and went and the staff here made use of the conditions with climbing in Glencoe, Cairngorms and elsewhere.

The ropes course opens Saturday!

2008-07-10T07:26:00.000-07:00

The Ice Factor's new High ropes course opens this weekend. Here is a sampler with Lorenzo enjoying the 'King Swing'. Listen to him scream!

Crampons stashed away

2008-05-04T05:28:00.000-07:00

Everyone at the Ice factor is sad to see the winter coming to an end. Most of us have now stored crampons away until next winter or for some summer alpine action. All the instructors have been busy with at work or out on the hill. Alan has been to Greenland for a spot of skiing and several days guiding in Glencoe as well. see http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/ for more info. Jamie B has also been pretty active guiding as well as spending 3 days with Lochaber college teaching lead climbing at Glen Nevis and nearby venues. Guy spent 2 days walking with Lochaber college students east of the Grey Corries, looking at navigation, leadership and camp craft. He has also spent some days down at Glen Nevis with Will getting him prepared for his SPA, but unfortunately Guy is injured so he has been pretty inactive. Will is currently on his SPA assessment this weekend (good luck Will) and Al is assessing. Will has been out climbing every spare minute hes had to get himself prepared. Tom has been bouldering at Glen Nevis quite a lot and is off on his SML Training next week. Lorenzo has also been active on his days off as well as making the most of the staff training days out. Jamie H has also been out enjoying the hills as well.

Glen Nevis

2008-04-19T05:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Will and Guy went to Glen Nevis to tick off some more single pitch routes, as Will has his SPA assessment closing in. They climbed on pinnacle ridge, SW buttress, Pine Wall and Styx Buttress. Will set up some group abseils on SW Buttress and then they both went for an ice cream in Fort William. Stunning day, rock very dry and no midgies. See http://guysteven.blogspot.com/ for more pictures.

Later, the bouldering posse ventured out to Heatherhat boulder, this consisted of Tom and a few locals who come to the wall. They spent a couple of hours cranking on the overhanging problems after being spat off onto the mats! Today Tom is complaining of sore fingers (must have been a hard session) but is keen to head back out onto the rock.

Glencoe and Ben Nevis, 16th &17th April

2008-04-19T05:40:00.000-07:00

Jamie B and Lorenzo had planned a traverse of the Aonach Eagach on Wednesday but found it somewhat bare of snow and had an easy day on Curved Ridge instead. Conditions were “alpine”; crampons and axes only being employed on the top half of the route, and not at all by a surprising number of people coming up the grade I slope at the top of Coire na Tulaich!

On Thursday the pair turned their attentions to the Ben and climbed Two-Step Corner (V,5). The morning was quite blustery with a biting easterly wind but this corner of Coire na Ciste was relatively sheltered. The route was in great nick with first time placements, interesting climbing and a monster cornice to out-flank. Teams also seen on Quickstep, Diana and Boomers Requiem. Loads to go at if the nights stay cold!

Climbing on th Ben

2008-04-10T07:43:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Lorenzo and Jamie B climbed White Line (III) on the Ben. This is a good expedition up the broken ground to the right of Glover’s Chimney which has a real big route feel despite the modest grade. This was accentuated by slightly worrying snow conditions on the approach and some small sluffs on part of the route as the day warmed up. They did consider backing off at one point but persevered and were rewarded by a sunny Lochaber panorama and perfect bum-slide conditions on the Red Burn descent. As Lorenzo would say; Happy Days!

MRT Training and Guiding

2008-04-07T02:38:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Jamie B was up in SCNL in Glencoe guiding on Dorsal Arete. He had two clients, Sonya and Barry. This was Sonya's first Scottish winter climb and Barry's 1st ever winter climb. They had the whole route to themselves and the weather was nicer than expected. Other teams were on Twisting and Boomerang, Jamie reports SC possibly complete. Snow was being blown around creating some wind slab and the buttresses were also quite black.

Lorenzo was out Mountain Rescue Training with the Oban team. He headed up to Beinnn an Dothaidh and they headed up West Gully. They were hauling large amounts of equipment to deal with various different scenarios and rescues. They were looking at belays, safety lines, lowering casualties and casualty management. Lorenzo reported kind weather, with the odd blizzard blowing in, creating a reasonable amount of wind slab and also some avalanche debris was present. Lorenzo also spent an hour teaching crampon skills with a less experienced member.

Smiths Route 4 April

2008-04-04T12:03:00.000-07:00

Jamie B and Guy did the original line on Smiths route today in mild conditions. (see : http://guysteven.blogspot.com/ ) They said the climbing was a little tenuous and the icicle variation didnt really appeal in its current condition. Jamie reported ice on Indicator Wall (but not a lot else in that area) and thin ice remaining in Point 5 and on Observatory butress. I'll try to get photos and more details up tomorrow.
Al was in the Gorms this week: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Fri 28th

2008-03-29T02:35:00.001-07:00

Als Blog has been updated from yeterday: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/ on the Ben.

Isle of Skye and North Buttress

2008-03-23T07:20:00.000-07:00

Over the last week Jamie B and Guy have been working on Skye with a group of cadets from Bedford. They spent 4 days on the hill with the group, with one rest day in the middle, when Guy and Jamie climbed Pinnacle ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean in winter conditions. Guy and Jamie also went to the White dyke crag for a couple of hours bouldering on the way home.

Yesterday Guy climbed North Buttress on the Buachille and Jamie B is out today . . . . climbing . . . somewhere??

For more info and pictures of Skye and North Buttress see http://guysteven.blogspot.com/

SCNL and Ben Lui

2008-03-20T07:54:00.000-07:00

On tuesday Matt took Laurent to Glencoe for the last day of his 4 day winter climbing course. Will went along to make up a third so that Laurent could lead Dorsal Arete. Afterwards they abseiled down Forked Gully to do Micro Rib reporting good conditions for climbing but a lot of digging for gear.

On the same day Jamie H our resident shop monkey and artisit went for a solo trip to ben Lui, pointed himself at a likly looking line and climbed it (see pics).

Mild to the tops today with more snow and much colder weather forecast from tomorrow - looks like it could be another great late season!

Aonach Mor

2008-03-17T12:19:00.000-07:00

Matt and Laurent had a relaxing day on Aonach Mor today after a late finish on the Ben yesterday. They did Morwind reporting 'mint' conditions. There are some big cornices still around on that crag but the snow is stablising steadily: http://saislochaber.blogspot.com/

The Ben and Aonach Mor

2008-03-16T13:00:00.000-07:00

Matt and Laurent went for a big day today climbing the classic Observatory Ridge with snow that was a 'little challenging'
Al went with JP and Al to the West face of Aonach Mor and despite the lenght of the route were up and back in the Top Station cafe enjoying the sun and a beer/hot chocolate (see http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/).
Jamie B and Guy are on Skye for 5 days with: http://www.bedfordschool.org.uk/.
And there is the possibility of big news on the Ben - see Rob's Blog: http://www.highlandguides.com/winterreports0708.htm and then confirm or not on Dave's: http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/ .

SCNL

2008-03-15T12:32:00.000-07:00

Matt and Laurent went to a very snowy Stob Coire Nan Lochain today and climbed Boomerang Arete (III) under heavy snow. The snow and ice was a bit cruddy lower down but still so deep it almost didnt matter! As the angle eased at the top of the arete they crossed Boomerang gully to get another pitch of II out of the awesome day. Teams were out on Twisting Grooves and Gully (no ice, lots of soft snow), Scabbard Chimney, Ordinary route and, of course, Dorsal. There were several weak layers low down in the snow pack and most people were keeping clear of the gullys (which would have been a wade) and thee were lots and lots of sun balls from solar thawing on the west side of the coire. Al and team were climbing in the same area, more here: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

8 and 9 March

2008-03-09T13:19:00.000-07:00

Yesterday (Sat) Jamie B was out on the East Ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn managing to stay out of the wind most of the day until they hit the plateau. Today they were on Dorsal Arete reporting lots of fresh snow on the move. At the end of the day today the snow level came down and as the winds will change directions several times over the next day or so, watch out for where it all ends up. There could be unstable deposits in hollows and gullies on a variety of aspects.

Snow, snow, snow

2008-03-03T13:04:00.000-08:00

Woke this morning to lots of snow down to sea level in Kinlochleven. Over the last couple of days Jamie has been out doing some winter skills and leading a walking party over Bidean Nam Bian, Guy has posted below about a day out in Glencoe and yesterday Karl took Karsten and Andreas to White Corries to look at some walking skills prior to their climbing course this week (see: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/ for today). As ever the centre has been busy on the bad weather days and the staff took the opportunity to use a little of today's snow to repack the wall. Yesterday we hosted a seminar held by Mountain Leader Training Scotland for Instructor's interested in providing the new Climbing Wall Supervisors Award.

Winter walking in Glencoe

2008-03-02T10:50:00.000-08:00

Today Guy had two clients for a days winter walking. He went up to Stob Corie nan Lochain via the NE ridge and down the N ridge. They practiced some self-arresting as they arrived back into the corrie. For more pics and info see http://guysteven.blogspot.com/

Wind Rain and Snow in Glencoe

2008-02-24T13:23:00.000-08:00

Gillian and her party braved the weather all weekend to go to Glencoe ski area on Saturday and Stob Coire Nan Lochain on Sunday. Winds were high and good deal of fresh snow fell on Sunday. A real wild introduction to Scottish winter for Lim and her friends. Post from Al here:http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Aonach Mor and Glencoe

2008-02-21T01:28:00.000-08:00

On Tuesday we had 17 students from an Outdoor Activities club out doing various levels of winter skills with Karl and Guy (at Glencoe ski centre) and Gillian, Campbell and Gwylim (at Aonach Mor. All parties enjoyed good snow and great sunny weather.

Yesterday Jamie B and Alisatair found good ice on Forgotten Twin on Aonach Mor and Al and Rich had a good day on Boomerang Gully (see http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/). That seems to be the last of it for a few days unfortunately as we have milder weather and rain today, slightly cooler tomorrow and then its going to continue to rock back and forwards between (slightly) cooler and warmer temperatures for the next few days. Lets just hope it is cool enough to put down a little snow rather than just remove it!!

Glencoe18Feb

2008-02-18T13:27:00.000-08:00

Alan, Clare and Adrian went to Central Gully on Bidean today. See http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/ for details and photos.

The Ben

2008-02-17T05:31:00.000-08:00

On Friday Karl, Pete and Lorenzo were on Raeburn's Easy Route which is proving popular at the moment. Alan was on No2 Gully with Clare and Adrian at the same time (see: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/). On Saturday Karl, Chris and Martin anjoyed Tower Ridge and coming down No.4 Gully. Things were nose to tail at Tower Gap so they stopped for sandwiches in the sun on the Great Tower and had good views towards Smiths Route. When they topped out they wandered around to the summit and were rewarded to a cloud inversion. For Sunday they are heading to one of the Castle Gullies.

And sunny during the week.

2008-02-12T14:28:00.000-08:00

The weather was truly stunning today. Al soloed No.2 on the Ben and came down No.3 then joined Jamie B and Will on Cascade (nice lead Mr.B ice wasnt all that helpful and well done to Will on his first foray onto ice this steep - outside of our big fridge) before soling off along Raeburns Easy to a sunny plateau with awesome views all around. Pics and details here: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Misty weekend

2008-02-11T07:37:00.000-08:00

The weekend was busy despite the major thaw to snow. Nick and his student went to the Ben on Saturday and found good ice around Tower Scoop, heard things falling down Indicator Wall, came up against a 3 foot crown wall from an avalanache during the last snowy spell near the foot of Tower Gully and gave directions to a large 'temporarily misplaced' party of Irish on top of the Ben, sunday was a little less eventful with good ice on Left Twin. Jamie B and his students were on the Nid of Aonach Mor on Saturday and climbed up and ab'ed back down No.2 Gully (reported as largely uniform snow) on Sunday. Guy, Nina, Davey and Karl went out with a Stag party on Saturday for a walk on the Mamores. See Guys's Blog for details: http://guysteven.blogspot.com/
Al took Karyn and Steve up Dorsal Arete on Saturday and then helped them lead themselves up a largely snow free Curved Ridge on Sunday. Pictures here: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/
One thing all staff on the hill noted was how loose the rock is after this last thaw. But the number of people seen soling around over the weekend without helmets begs the question as to whether they were all very good at assessing the risks involved or blissfully ignorant! Staff saw/heard large rockfalls on Dorsal Arete in Glencoe and in Observatory Gully on the Ben. Take care and wear a lid folks.
Today the sky is clear and blue, the night was colder than expected and there is still plenty of snow in the gullys which should be firming up nicely.

Busy week

2008-02-08T02:05:00.000-08:00

Lots going on at The Ice Factor.

This week Al started the off in the Cairngorms before coming back to the west. See: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Guy and Lorenzo returned from a good trip to Rjukan and Guy was straight out for an ascent of Tower Ridge with Will: http://guysteven.blogspot.com/

Nick and team were mountaineering in Glencoe, on the Nid on Aonach Mor and finally on the fine East Ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn on Thursday.

Jamie B and party were walking on Buachaille Etive Beag and looking at some winter skills on Aonach Mor. Today he has gone up to Coire nan Lochain.

A big thaw hit on thursday and looks like it will last over the weekend - snow is slowly but steadily retreating from the Mamores above Kinlochleven. Fingers crossed for a return to cold weather before we lose too much.

We have found an old Mountain Tech pick in the shop (pic attached). I know these are a bit of a rarity now. Anyone who wants it call 01855 831 103 for the Ice Factor shop.

Ice Factor in Norway

2008-02-05T11:03:00.000-08:00

Over the last week Lorenzo and Guy have been out experiencing Norweigen ice with some friends in Rjukan. This was Lorenzo's second time out to Norway and he was climbing exceptionally well and also spending a large proportion of his climbing time with the less experienced members of the group coaching them what he knew. As this was Guy's first time to Rjukan, he spent most of the week hunting the routes he had been eyeing up in the guidebook whilst he was on the plane. Conditions out at Rjukan consisted of large amounts of snowfall and temperatures fluctuating greatly. Despite this, the boys got some great climbs in and made the most of their week away from long walk-ins and the lovely weather here in Scotland.

30 Jan

2008-01-31T07:43:00.000-08:00

Jamie B went to No. 3 Gully Butress today because Tom, Colin and Al had enjoyed it so much yesterday. Tom and Colin meanwhile led their first winter route today, the popular Dorsal Arete in Glencoe. Pictures here: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/
Today (the 31st) the Ice Factor is busy with visitors from Mountain Motion, Jagged Globe, Plas Y Brenin and the Joint Services Mountain Training Centre all in the big fridge sheltering from the high winds and heavy snow on the hills.

No3 Gully Butress

2008-01-29T12:34:00.000-08:00

Al, Colin and Tom were on the Ben today. Pics and report at: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Windy day in the Mamores

2008-01-24T13:18:00.000-08:00

Today Will, Jamie H and Henry ventured out into the local hills. The weather was nice at times and horrible at others. After a long walk in they were greeted by a really nice grade 1 scramble up the NE ridge of Binnein Mor. When they got onto the ridge proper the wind was brutal, at one point lifting Jamie H clear off the ground! Some fantastic views and lots of spindrift: a great day!!

Stob Coire Nan Lochain

2008-01-22T10:43:00.000-08:00

Today Jamie B was working in Glencoe and took Lindsey up Ordinary Route (III/IV,4***). Guy and Tom were also in the area and climbed Dorsal Arete Chimney Variant (IV,5*). This was Toms second winter climb and he scored well as he led one of the pitches on Dorsal Arete. The day was getting milder by the hour and by around 3pm, the rain had come in and it became quite warm. After finishing their route, Tom and Guy descended Broad Gully which was firm underfoot, with a light dusting of snow on top but gradually getting wetter and rather sticky! Guy, Tom, Jamie and Lindsey all happened to meet in the Coire and descended the hill together, great day to be climbing, even better day to be working and climbing! See http://guysteven.blogspot.com/ for more pictures.

Icicle Gully Aonach Mor 20 Jan

2008-01-20T12:29:00.000-08:00

Al, Jane and Jamie B went for a quick day to Aonach Mor today and climbed Icicle Gully. There were plenty of teams out (Turf Walk, Morwind, Lickety Split, Forgotten Twin, Right Twin, Left Twin and Grooved Arete were all climbed). More pics here: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Glencoe 18 and 19 Jan

2008-01-19T10:51:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Jamie B took John and Will out to brave gales and heavy rain at all levels on Dorsal Arete. With weary legs this morning Al took them to the Buachaille today to do some mountaineering around Great Gully, North Butress and the lower parts of Curved Ridge. Between the full on weather yesterday an the slightly more benign conditions today the guys felt they had a good introduction to mountaineering ground and Scottish winter conditions with all that that implies. Pics from today at: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Exellent conditions on Ben Nevis

2008-01-16T13:49:00.000-08:00

Today Kenny and Guy were spoilt for choice on the Ben as the conditions were priceless! So many route were in! We ended up on Stringfellow (VI,6***) on Pinnacle buttress of the Tower. It was quite a 'slog' up to the base of the climb (but well worth it), but the snow underfoot was very firm so we were able to make good progress. On arrival to the route, we saw 2 climbers already set off on Stringfellow so we decided to climb up the 1st pitch of Face Dancer (VI,6*) to get ahead of them, and return onto Stringfellow. It turned out they retreated anyway. The route was outstanding, but gear was extremely hard to find/place as the rock on the route was very compact, but also nearly every inch of the rock has a thin coating of ice (cams were useless). Some of the ice routes are forming nicely such as The Curtain and Gemini on Carn Dearg Buttress, the minus gullies were also looking good, comb gully was banked out with snow and 'the Point' is plumping up! Despite the awesome conditions, there were only a few other parties out, couple on Tower Ridge, Ledge Route and I saw one guy wandering down number 4 gully. All in all, a great day with great weather. Pictures at http://guysteven.blogspot.com/

Hidden Ridge on Ben Starav 16 Jan

2008-01-16T13:28:00.000-08:00

Jamie B, Will, Henry and Al went to this out of the way Grade IV today and it was well worth it. Report at: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

Winter Skills, Monday 15th Jan

2008-01-15T05:06:00.000-08:00

Jamie B and Matt (with Henry and Will observing) took a group of Lochaber College students to Coire an t-Sneachda in the Cairngorms to look at safe movement, including axe and crampon practice, navigation and snow awareness. The snow had consolidated appreciably after the weekend thaw, but there was plenty of fresh stuff making the buttresses look nice and white; a few teams were seen climbing. No photos unfortunately as JB's camera took a groundfall on Aonach Beag on Saturday!

Sron na Lairg in the sun 12 Jan

2008-01-12T15:36:00.000-08:00

report on a stunning day out here on al's Blog: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

2008-01-11T05:41:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Guy, Lorenzo and Jamie H went for a long walk in Ardgour making a complete circuit of the coire to the east of Garbh Bheinn, Coire an Iubhair. The pictures attached give some idea of the snow cover even that far west in an area normally heavily influenced by moist air from the sea.

Aonach Mor 10 Jan

2008-01-10T12:52:00.000-08:00

Jamie B was out with a party from Lochaber College on Aonach Mor doing some winter skills. He repoerts plenty of fresh snow at the top of the nid and large loose snow cornices forming. No climbers in evience today on the East face as far as he could see. Perhaps not the best choice of venue for the weekend. Nick was over in Sneachda today and reportede less snow than expected on the walk in and better stability than expected on some of the routes. Not something to get complacent about and I'd still look hard at the forecast - http://www.sais.gov.uk/ and keep a close eye on conditions when out but it looks as if the wind the winds have scoured parts of the northern corries today.

Original Route 8 Jan 2008

2008-01-09T04:51:00.000-08:00

Jamie B did Original route (IV, 5) yesterday in heavy snow conditions but found some frozen turf after digging the route out. He said that the boulders were still visible on the apron but the gullies were filling in with fresh windblown snow.

Matt, Adam and A N Other started up Route II on the Ben but were forced to finish up Route I - a good effort in the weather. The climbing was escribed as 'very physical'.

The snowline is at about 500m above Kinlochleven just now and we had severe storms all last night - watch the wind direction and keep out of those gullies folks!

Curved Ridge 6 Jan

2008-01-06T12:29:00.000-08:00

For a report and photos of conditions on the Buachaille on 6 Jan see: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/
Also Jamie B reports good conditions (less snow, rimed rock and frozen turf) from Golden Oldie on Aonach Mor. Routes done by others today include West Chimney and Ordinary route in Glencoe and The Lamp in Sneachda - get amongst it folks!

Glencoe 29 Dec and Fannichs 30 Dec

2008-01-02T10:37:00.000-08:00

See Al' blog for some climbing reports just before new year: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/ and have a top 2008 from all at The Ice Factor!!

Glencoe 25 Dec Conditions

2007-12-25T13:45:00.000-08:00

For a look at Glencoe conditions on Christmas day see Al's Blog: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/

No. 2 Gully Ben Nevis 20 Dec

2007-12-21T06:31:00.000-08:00

Jamie B and Will went to No.2 Gully yesterday. The snow was bomber and there were big steps hacked up the steep sections. Come the weekend its all change, lets hope for ma dump of snow for Christmas!

A little ice on the Ben

2007-12-17T14:04:00.000-08:00

It was a stunning day on Ben Nevis today and the temperature inversion meant that whilst it remained sub zero in Fort William the temperatures up near the summit were much milder. Jamie B and Al walked in to Coire na Ciste this morning. We spotted another pair heading into Number 2 Gully so we headed for Raeburn's Easy Route. There is a fair amount of ice around but very little outside of the main gully lines climbable, the snow, where you can find it, is firm after the thaw and refreeze. Towards the end of the route we broke up left and found a couple of good pitches to give a line that went at about III,4. Popping out into the evening light we were rewarded to amazing views. We passed by the summit and descended Coire Leis (patchy snow, ice routes forming but not quite complete on the Brenva Fave).

Ben Nevis Conditions 17 December

2007-12-17T12:58:00.000-08:00

The frost never left Fort William today but there was water running at the top of the Ben - a real temperature inversion. Jamie B and Al took these photos on their way to their climb (see above). They show Raeburn's Easy Route, No. 2 Gully and No.3 all looking complete and climbable. They descended Coire Leis (the photos looking across to the Mamores give some idea of the snow cover on the west at the moment) which was holding ice but not quite enough to climb. From below Tower Gully looked complete and Gardyloo is PROBABLY doable although the top can feel quite hard in thin early season conditions. The last photo shows thin water ice on the wall and there was snow down as far as the top of the bulge. Most of the snow today was firm and axe friendly (unlike the deep powder in the 'Gorms last week).

Less snow in Glencoe

2007-12-15T04:28:00.000-08:00

Al took Dave and Gerry out onto Buachaille Etive Mor for a days mountaineering. The snow of last week has largely disappeared and Curved Risge was almost completely bare. There was a lot of deep, soft, wet snow at the top of Coire na Tualich to be waded and slid down though! Lets hope for a quick return to the great mixed conditions soon.

Darth Vader pictures 10/12/07

2007-12-15T04:01:00.000-08:00

John Sutherland and I climbed this classic route on Creag Coire na Ciste on Monday the 10th December.Blue skies, no wind and perfect climbing conditions- doesn't get better than that!

More mixed action10 and 11 Dec

2007-12-12T11:35:00.000-08:00

On Monday Kenny climbed Darth Vader(VII,8) on the Ben but was thouroughly distracted by Andy Turner's ground breaking ascent of The Secret as reported by lots of conditions/climbing website. This looks like a real step forward in terms of style and difficulty for such a hard mixed route. On the same day Alan (fresh back from sunning it in Spain - see pics) led Derek up Opening Break (IV,5) and Jamie B and Campbell forced Honeypot (IV,6) on the Mess of Pottage over in the Cairngorms. On Tuesday Kenny and Al started up the winter Version of Genie (V,7) in Coire an t Sneachda. A routefinding error saw them wander onto Salvation (V,7) which finally defeated them and they headed back to the coire floor still happy after a good pitch or two of hard mixed climbing.
Several parties have been in the Ice Factor asking about conditions locally and in the Cairngorms. Its worth noting that whilst the current spate of hard mixed routes have come in and gone out of condition quite quickly, many easier routes (especially gullys) need more of a build up to avoid grovelling on loose rock that there isnt yet enough buildup of snow and ice to cover or hold together. It only takes a day like today of thaw conditions to strip of a lot of the apparently healthy covering of early season snow so be careful out there.

The bottom 2 images are of the Aonach Eagach on 10 Dec and are from Jamie Hageman a talented artist and member of our shop staff. See more of his photos and pictures here: http://www.jamiehageman.com/

Babylon on the Ben

2007-11-29T14:29:00.000-08:00

Today Kenny and Guy decided to go and check out Ben Nevis North Face to see if they could get a climb in. On the walk in from the car park, they were greeted by a light snow blizzard which gave the ground and the crag even more snow cover. They walked up into Coire na Ciste and headed up to Number Three Gully Buttress and climbed Babylon (VII,8**). This route was amazing. The protection was pretty good, bomber where they needed it and the climbing was challenging and sustained. This is Kenny's hardest winter lead he has climbed to date, and by far one of my most memorable. During the climb the weather held out very nicely, calm most of the day, a couple of snow showers here and there. The route itself was in good nick. A little bit mushy lower down but good build up higher up and plenty of rhyme. It got dark as they topped out, they abseiled down Number Three Gully to their sacks and headed back home for pizza and beer.

Hot Aches? Not today!

2007-11-26T13:34:00.000-08:00

Today Joe and Guy headed out to Coire t'Sneachda and climbed Invernookie (III,4*). This mixed line was in good condition, there was quite a build up of snow, so gear placements took a little time to scrape out. The turf was nice and solid, and the belays were small but bomber, the weather was overcast but relatively calm as we climbed. All in all it was a very good day for both Joe and Guy especially as this was Joe's first winter climbing experience. He looked very confident as he climbed and grasped a really good feel of what winter climbing is all about. Keep it up Joe!

A Wild Day on the Ben

2007-11-25T09:47:00.000-08:00

Yesterday(24.11.07), Kenny, Joe and John braved the wet and windy weather to have a look at climbing conditions on the South Trident Buttress,Ben Nevis. After a somewhat soggy approach, they were pleasantly suprised to find good mixed conditions, and decided on Kellet's Groove Climb.

This is an excellent short and steep mixed climb, similiar in style to Scabbard Chimney in Glencoe, but with an exciting back and footing crux near the top.

During the occasional break in the cloud, No.3 Gully Buttress/Creag Coire nan Ciste looked to be well rimed up and in excellent mixed nick. There was also a fair amount of ice forming in some places. All in all an good start to the season.

Cairngorm Poo Project

2007-11-22T01:47:00.000-08:00

The Cairngorm Ranger Service have started a new initiative to help reduce contamination by human waste by parties snowholing in popular areas on the Cairngorm plateau. If you do decide to undertake a planned snowholing trip you might like to take advantage of the offer of free bags, BDH and disposal. Here is a news release for more details;

“Human Waste and Snow Holes in the Cairngorms”
Cairngorm Poo Project

Spending the night in a snow hole in the Cairngorms is a popular activity - whether as part of a Winter Mountain Leader Course or just for pleasure. Like all activities in the hills, if only a few folk are doing it then it’s not a problem but with increasing numbers now enjoying the Scottish winter hills, snow hole sites are sadly becoming environmental disaster areas. When the snow melts in the summer months at the popular sites of Ciste Mhearad and Coire Domhain, our human impact is all too apparent…….

There are lots of good reasons to carry your waste off the hill:

Visual degradation of our superb mountains.
Water contamination in the River Nethy and Loch Avon Basin.
Growing evidence that human waste is having a significant impact on the biodiversity of the late lie snow bed habitats.
Increased risk of sickness from melting and drinking contaminated snow.
The current trend of milder winters, resulting in the increased number of users to the very accessible, but high, snow hole sites of Ciste Mhearad and Coire Domhain.

Motivated by a ‘Leave No Trace’ Course run by Cairngorm National Park, I felt that the time was right to initiate a ‘Pack It Out’ system here in the Northern Cairngorms. Those of you who have been on Winter Mountain Leadership course at Glenmore Lodge in the last 10 years will know that they have been instrumental in doing just that. The project has worked well and been very successful in educating mountain leaders in good practice. However a system open to the general public, easily accessible from the main access to the Northern Cairngorms and environmentally friendly seemed to be the way ahead if our impact on the hill were to be minimized.

Easy job or so I thought! We have a sewage plant here at the mountain - what could be easier than handing out a few biodegradable bags and providing access to our sewage plant to drop them in!! How naïve can you get? I hadn’t considered health and safety, SEPA regulations, sponsorship, funding, management of the project and the biggest headache of all, finding a biodegradable bag that was strong enough to hold poo but then break down easily in our sewage plant.

After working for 3 seasons in Antarctica, pooing in a bag seems like normal practice to me, though I’m not sure my partner and lodger felt the same way when throughout this summer they have been asked to provided samples for me to test various bags! I figured that the longest a bag needed to stay together was 3 days and then a test suspending them in an old mink trap in the sewage plant would see if they broke down easily and allowed the contents to join the rest of Cairngorm Mountain sewage.

Bio bags made out of various types of starch - potato, corn and tapioca seemed the obvious choice - strong enough to hold the poo, but, on test, unfortunately after 3 months did not break down to allow the contents out. Next trial was ‘water soluble’ bags - perfect.

The commercial laundry business uses them all the time - the whole bag plus contents goes straight into the washing machine and, as if by magic, the bag disappears! A slight flaw became apparent in this system when the temp of the water had to be 60oc for the bag to break down – ooops! The first settling tank of our sewage plant is around 5oc!!

So what about cold water soluble bags? Perfect? Well, they break down immediately when dropped into the sewage plant - but not so perfect if they are being used in wet conditions or come into contact with any urine. Yes you can picture the problem out there on the plateau with a cold water soluble bag in the pouring rain! ……………..

Enviro Bag,, who produce these water soluble bags kindly offered to produce one that would break down at 40ºc, allowing the poo to be held in place, but break down when submerged in the sewage plant. However, as this product was oil-based and not vegetable-based - like the starch bags - would it pass the scrutiny of SEPA and, more importantly, not mess up our sewage plant? SEPA is happy with them, but, unfortunately, I’m not as I feel that any system we use has to be ‘Bomb Proof’ and as user friendly as possible. So, while writing this article in Aug for the November issue of Scottish Mountaineer, I’m still not quite there on the bag problem. I have various tests going on at present using moisture absorbing material in the water-soluble bags and adding various substances to the bio-bags to encourage a swift breakdown, including recycled chicken shit from my chucks at home!! Such has been progress that I now feel positive that the bag problems have been sorted and we are ready to launch the project for the winter season. (Nov 07 - the bag problem is sorted and we have available ‘bespoke’ bags reading and waiting for people to use).

Everything else is up and running. I have had some great support from my colleagues here at Cairngorm Mountain while Tiso’s have kindly sponsored the poo bottles; Cairngorm National Park Authority has provided funding for publicity and Cairngorm Signs is currently providing a good deal on the informative signage here in the car park at Coire Cas.

So how does it work?

Firstly, the service is completely FREE OF CHARGE

If you are accessing a snow hole site from the Cairngorm Ski Area I would encourage you to do your bit for the Cairngorms and call in at the Ranger Base for your bags, a carrying pot (BHD - a light and rigid bottle with a screw top with no chance of any leakage or smell) and pouches (if you want to carry the pot externally it fits really easily to the compression straps on the side of your rucksack). Then, when nature calls, poo in the bag, tie the top of the bag and put in the BDH. On return to the car park, follow the signs, which will direct you down to below the bottom car park where you will find the Poo Chute where you deposit your bag and throw the BDH in the sterilizing barrel next to it. The BDH can then be cleaned and re- used for the next person.

Cairngorm Mountain is a social enterprise owned by a charitable trust. We strive to support our local community while offering an exceptional mountain experience in a sustainable way. Every thing you spend at Cairngorm Mountain goes towards achieving these aims.

Heather Morning
Cairngorm Ranger Service
Tel: 01479 861703

Winter action

2007-11-16T13:38:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Kenny, Guy and Tom all headed out to The Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm and climbed The seam (IV,5*) in Coire an t-sneachda. This was Tom first winter route, which he climbed very well. The boys broke it down into two pitches, Guy lead first then Kenny lead the chimney-fault (crux) to finish the route. Climbing in a 3 meant that Tom was given plenty of 'pointers' as he climbed and was keen to learn as much about winter climbing as possible. Conditions were ideal for Tom 1st climb (keep checking this blog to see how Tom gets on in 'proper Scottish winter' conditions)

Today Kenny and Guy Headed back out to the Northern Corries and marched into Coire an Lochain and climbed The Migrant (VI,7**). The route was amazing, however the crag appeared to be thawing out as they were climbing, however it didn't cause any problems. Guy lead the first pitch which involved some interesting moves, then Kenny ascended up the rest of the route, which included the crux and some 'full-on' situations. Great route. A little bit of everything.

For more pictures see http://guysteven.blogspot.com/

Wet n wild

2007-11-03T07:31:00.000-07:00

Last weekend Andy and Al were out for a day on Curved Ridge. Even though the heavens opened an enjoyable day was spent scrambling up, abseiling from the top of Crowberry Tower. We do this route many times a year but it is still the first time for each new client and the different people (and weather) help keep the day fresh for us too. On descent the paths were doing good impressions of streams but at least Andy's new jacket beads well!

October mountain routes

2007-10-23T05:37:00.000-07:00

Neil and Al went to the Wst Face of Aonach Dubh to do B to F route on Saturday. This scramble ascends the buttress to the right of Dinnertime Buttress and traverses across the middle ledge (the fault line between the andesite and rhyolite layers) to No. 4 Gully. A shallow rib allows the gully to be climbed to the upper ledge where you can keep to the crest of F buttress or double back across towards Dinnertime to escape. From there we carried on over Stob Coire nan Lochain and Bidean before descending by Coire nam Beith. Yesterday Jamie B was out in glencoe on the zig zags and today he's with Stuart and Steve at Duntelchaig. Its been a moslty dry week here in lochaber and has warmed up a little since last weeks dusting of snow so there's still plenty of mountaineering to be doen before winter arrives.

Chilly on the Buachaille

2007-10-18T02:48:00.000-07:00

John, Neil, Mike and Al had been heading north to Ben Nevis but an accident on the A82 north of Corran Ferry had blocked the road. A quick change of plans and we went to Buachaille Etive Mor to have a look at some mountaineering skills. We climbed D Gully Butress up to where it joins Curved Ridge and carried on up to the top of Crowberry Tower. We abseiled from there and headed over the summit in a flurry of snow showers. On the way we looked at various types of belays and protection and moving around on mountaineering ground as ropes of 2 and 3. Conditions felt very autumnal with a healthy dusting of snow down to 900m in the morning. The afternoon light was spectacular with the shadow of Buachaille Etive Mor clearly cast down onto the moor below and rainbows out on Rannoch Moor.

Outdoor Climbing with Lochaber College Outdoor HNC

2007-10-12T07:43:00.000-07:00

Jamie B and alan took 6 students from the HNC Outdoor course to Glen Nevis for a day of outdoor rock climbing. Pairs of students climbed Pinnacle Ridge and Styx Butress Right Wall and sections of the Gutter and routes on SW Butress. They also looked at group management issues when working with groups at crags and running abseil sessions - a busy day!

Dunkeld in the Autumn

2007-10-12T07:30:00.000-07:00

Jamie B, Robin and Al went to Dunkeld today and were pleasantly surprised as they left Glencoe and the clouds rolled back to reveal a warm and sunny day. Robin hadn't been climbing for a while but it didnt stop them covering plenty of ground. The guys started on Holly Tree Wall and then climbed The Creep, Kestrel Crack, Springboard and The Groove. The only problems experienced were overheating in the bright, hot October sun!

Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis

2007-10-09T11:06:00.000-07:00

Today Tom and Guy headed up to the summit of Ben Nevis via the classic Tower Ridge. This was Tom's first time on Ben Nevis rock and what an exellent way to get to the top. Unfortunatly the boys were unable to see any further than 20m due to low cloud, however the exposure on Tower Gap was still pretty full-on! (In fact Toms quote afterwards was - "That was the scariest moment of my life but I loved it!") Guy's getting to know the route relatively well, although the last time he did it was in full winter conditions an the terrain was looking slightly different.

Clean sweep 7 oct

2007-10-08T09:12:00.000-07:00

Jane and Al woke up in their tent to frost, mist and damp roads but took a chance on a good forecast and walked up the Goat Track and down Coire Domhain to the foot of Hells Lum. Although the water was pouring down some parts of the crag the warm sun and sight of plenty of dry rock meant they decided to give Clean Sweep, the classic VS a go. The first 4c pitch had a few wet streaks easily stepped over before climbing an awkward groove onto the dry 'whaleback ridge'. Jane led the next pitch which although technically the easiest on the route was disconcertingly wet (in fact thats an understatement!) but plenty of runners and perseverance soon saw them at the great block at the foot of the almost bone dry 'pink corner'. This pitch is a delight, well protected positive climbing with continual interest but never desperate for the grade. The last proper pitch is a bit steeper though easier at 4b, following a less disinct line up the ridge above. The belay is only a short scramble of 20m from the plateau. As the skies finally clouded over they grabbed their bags and headed back to the ski centre for a well earned brew pleased with another late season rock route in the bag and not having seen a soul in the Loch Avon basin all day.

Late summer sun

2007-10-02T04:19:00.000-07:00

The high pressure has blessed us with a week of great weather here in the west of Scotland with just a few isolated showers blowing through. Al was at a wedding in Strathpeffer on Saturday and sepnt Sunday and Monday cragging out west. On Sunday they went to Stone Valley at the West end of Loch Maree and did the clssic Open Secret (HS), Bald Eagle (HVS 5a - just a spot of rain on it to add interest) and Cheesegrater Slab (VS 5a). A showery evening gave way to a grey Monday Morning so following advice in the excellent new Northern Highlands Central Guide they went out onto a coastal peninsula to the sandstone of Opinan Slabs. Here the rock was wet but still perfectly climbable. By midday the clouds had all disappeared so they relocated to Loch Tolaidh Crags to do one of the V Diffd there first done by the milatery in the 1940s followed by After Eight (Severe) and the fantastic Rough slab (VS 4c). All these routes are on immaculate rough Gneiss.

Tom and Joe have been continuing their explorations of Glen Nevis with an afternoon on Heatwave, Dundee Weaver and Pine Wall. Gill had a party of 4 out rock climbing on Saturday for us whilst at the same time Ali had Barry out on The Ben for a days mountaineering.

2007-09-27T03:38:00.000-07:00

Yesterday our Trainee Staff were up in Glen Nevis learning their way around the crags. Lorenzo, Joe and Tom (along with Katherine) nipped up Pinnacle Ridge and Tear and Joe led his first HVS - Hodad a steep but short and well protected pitch - nice one Joe. Jamie B and Rich are on holiday racking up the routes down in Wales, Kenny has gone to the Alps and I'm off to a wedding in Inverness this weekend so if the wether stays dry I'll hit the crags in the Northwest this weekend. Today Guy and Ed are out with parties of Dutch walkers enjoying the crisp sunshine in Glencoe and near Bridge of Orchy and tomorrow they'll be on the Mamores and in Glen Nevis. At the weekend we've parties out in Glen Nevis again and on the Ben - looks like a busy September for us!!

2007-09-27T02:38:00.000-07:00

After a few weeks of fairly grey weather high pressure finally graces us with its presence. It wasnt quite soon enough for Davey and Heather who's day out with Al at Glen Nevis started a bit damp (I promise not to put these pictures of you up in the Gents toilets Heather) . Fortunately the rock was bone dry by the end of the day. These guys have been out with us before on Agags Groove and also on Boomerang Gully last winter so it was time to actually get them doing things for themselves. We racked up 8 pitches of climbing with the guys placing gear and building belays for themselves. Rich took Elaine and Peter to Glen Nevis last Sunday whilst Jamie B took Perry and Rich up Curved Ridge on the Buachaille.

2007-09-13T12:55:00.000-07:00

Wow, where did the summer go? Time flies and we've been busy as ever. Jamie B had a fruitful trip to the Dolomites and since his return has been scrambling and teaching leading in Glencoe. Here are few pics of recent outdoor days. Alec and Sue enjoyed their day in Glen Nevis with Al so much that they came back for a day on the East face of Aonach Dubh with Kenny. Derek and Jen (one of many rising young Scots climbers) came to sample some trad rock and had 2 lovely days with Al in Glen Nevis and on Agags Groove. Simon and Nukshi beat the worst of the showers for their first day's outdoor rock also in Glen Nevis. Martin had an exciting day on North Butress with a couple of abseils to descend direct in Coire na Tulaich on the Buachaille. Tomorrow Al and new trainee lorenzo are off to Dunkeld to help Rich and Kenny with prep for their MIA assessment next week, Jamie B looks like he will be on Tower Ridge tomorrow AND Saturday and on sunday Al starts a 3 day introduction to outdoor leading.

2007-09-13T12:48:00.000-07:00

Jane and Al went Ice Climbing in South Africa for their summer holidays. The high plateau of the Drakensburgs leaks water down hanging valleys and gullies on its South Side during the southern winter so they went along to the MCSA annual ice meet and explored the areas biggest and best known venue, Giant's Castle. After a back breaking 1500m climb up to over 3000m with winter climbing and camping kit the spent their first day in the Lotheni Couloir (like most of the routes you ab/scramble in and climb back out again). The ice was thick but bullet hard, the route went at hard Scottish IV. That night they spent 7 hours sitting up against their tent poles in a gale and in the morning several of the locals were equally bleary eyed. Also local guide Gavin was taken very ill and the guys had to assist in a very windy stretcher carry to a place the helicopter could land (Gavin was later found to be suffering from Meningitis and Encephalytis!). The remainder of the day was spent diging in the tent against the gales. Next day they descended Makaza (the Zulu word for cold) and climbed back out in about 5 pitches of Scottish V before abing back down and doing a harder variation finish. From there they also went to the White Umfolozi River for some Trad rock and Waterval Boven to clip bolts.

2007-09-13T11:41:00.000-07:00

Our trainees have been out hitting the rock, having first and second alpine seasons and learning their way round our local peaks too.

2007-09-13T11:35:00.000-07:00

More pictures of our trainee and shop staff (and Guy who after 2 years has graduated to fully flegded Ice Factor Instructor) out at play.

3 Peaks Challenge

2007-07-07T04:24:00.000-07:00

Today was the start for 4 young enthusiasts to complete the 3 peaks challenge. Their plan was to go from summit to summit in 24 hours. Their first mission was to scale the heights of Ben Nevis, where they were shown the way by our instructor Guy. The walk up was long, as we were taking our time and saving energy for the rest of the challenge. We set off at 2000 and arrived at the summit shelter at 2315. We ate and recharged on the summit, ready for our speedy decent at mid-night. It took just over 2 hours to descend via the walkers path, but the boys were still extremely enthusiastic and the pace did not decrease. We arrived back at Glen Nevis Hostel just after 2 am, where they jumped into the car and headed of to The Lakes for their second summit.

2007-06-20T09:17:00.000-07:00

Ed and I had a spare half day free and he'd never been to the Trilleachan Slabs in Glen Etive before so we went up to climb the classic 5 pitch VS Spartan Slab. The slabs can take all morning to dry after rain but we were lucky and only the first pitch was damp (or Ed was lucky as that was my lead!).Many years ago this was my first VS lead and I never tire of the easy angled granite slabs up here. Spartan has good gear and belays (as does Hammer) compared to many of the harder routes here.
The third pitch, pulling over the overlap will be the crux for some (especially the short) and as the photos show - Scots bred climbers can't jam! Others will find the more delicate 4th pitch the harder of the two.
After 5 pitches of great climbing we scrambled off and down to get Ed back for his shift at The Ice Factor.

Rock Climbing in Glen Nevis

2007-06-15T03:30:00.000-07:00

Over the past couple of months the Ice Factor staff (Jamie B, Guy, Ed, Gabbi, Tom) have been taking groups of youths aged 6-12 year olds to Glen Nevis Crags. Most of them had never climbed before, but now they can all tie their own knots, belay and abseil. We visited crags such as 'Scimitar Buttress', 'The Alp', 'Pine Wall' and 'Upper Pinicle'. Due to bad weather some days involved climbing indoors at the Ice Factor. Here are a few pictures of the guys having fun at Glen Nevis. (see if you can spot the little commando!)

Realrock for Lochaber college students.

2007-05-24T09:26:00.000-07:00

Jamie B, Matt and I took students from the UHI Lochaber college Outdoor Activites SVQ out onto real rock for 3 days climbing. The guys have been coming to the Ice Factor over the last year learning how to use the indoor walls, lead inside and now try the real thing! We spent the first and last days at Polldubh and Tuesday went east to Kingussie crag. Most of the guys got as far as leading a few climbs and we were on things like The Gutter, Three Pines, Reptons Right Hand route, Right Wall of Styx Butress and Pinnacle Ridge in Glen Nevis and The Groove and Tennis Shoe at Kingussie Crag. we have another party out from the college in a few weeks time.

Ropes Courses and Wild Weather

2007-05-19T07:52:00.001-07:00

In the last week we've been battling mixed weather in Scotland. Jamie B and Al were away doing some staff training for Crieff Hydro on their new high ropes course. They snatched some evening cragging at Benny Beg (scottish sport climbing) and, more adventurously, on the trad routes at Glen Lednock. In the last couple of days Kenny and Al had a group of 5 out on the Aonach Eagach in sporting weather (70mph gales and hailstorms) and Jamie B took a father and son team (for a swim!) up Ben Nevis (it was a touch damp).

Spring Climbing and Scrambling.

2007-05-19T06:18:00.000-07:00

Busy as ever the last month at The Ice Factor. Weve had local youth groups and our own kids Club out on the crags of Glen Nevis, staff have been out in the dry weather on classics like Yo-Yo and Travelling man in Glencoe (well done Guy and Ed). Al and Jane were new routing in Ardnamurchan on short gabbro and basalt crags in a beautiful setting, then revisiting old friends in the northwest like the superb Cioch Nose in Applecross - a great contender for most exposed Severe in the UK. Gabbi went on her Summer Mountain Leader Training at Glenmore Lodge, which Al was working on too. Spring is a great time for scrambling and Al, Jamie B and Kenny have all had groups out on the Buachaille. The photos show a great father daughter team who did their first rock climbs at Polldubh on the Saturday and then Curved Ridge on Sunday.

Bedford CCF hillwalking week part 3

2007-04-23T07:04:00.000-07:00

For the last 2 days the teams started at opposite ends of the same route. Kinlochleven to Staonaig Bothy via Loch Eilde Mor then on to Loch Trieg and North through the Lairig Leacach. The northwards heading party camped at Staonaig whilst the southbounders pitched their tents by Loch Treig. Again we were lucky with the weather and a grand 2 days out were enjoyed by all. The CCF are off back to Bedford now to bathe tired feet!