D Gully Buttress and *lots* of snow!

Well, winter has finally arrived up here, and it's making up for lost time by throwing down loads of the white stuff.
Jamie and Isi were out on the Buachaille yesterday and went for a swim/ flounder/ dig up D Gully Buttress. It gave good sport in the conditions. Although it was definitely white and wintery, in places the turf was not as secure as we'd have liked as it's been insulated by the snow. There is some ice around, some of which gave purchase but much of it is not thick enough yet.
We reckon that the top pitch is a bit of a sandbag at IV,4 and felt more like tech 5 - bold and slabby. A good lead by Jamie!
We came down Curved Ridge - thankfully some guys had already plowed a trench up this earlier in the day so we were only knee deep following it down!
First climb of the season and looking forward to plenty more...

Jamie B's last Munro

When I picked the last weekend in October to complete my round of the Munros, I should probably have forecast that the weather might be a little "autumnal". In fact it was absolutely vile, and even the supposedly easy cycle in to Culra bothy wasn't. Nevertheless, despite my insistence that they really didn't have to follow me up the hill if they didn't want to, a motley collection braved horizontal and incessant rain to toast my last summit - the mighty Carn Dearg. The hip-flasks on the summit were much appreciated, but more so was the quick descent to the bothy and its welcoming fire.

We might have been a little at odds with the bothy code, which discourages groups, but Culra is in fact 3 bothys, or 3 seperate rooms in any case, so the 14 of us were able to co-exist with the other 4 hardy walkers in residence. In fact I think they were delighted by the amount of whisky and fuel for the fire that we'd brought in!

I'm feeling quietly pleased with myself now; Munro completion isnt the hardest, most physical or most risky of mountain adventures, but it does require a lot of dedication over a long time - 32 years to be precise! It's taken me into some of the wildest and remotest corners of the Scottish Highlands, which I might never have visited otherwise. But perhaps most of all, it's given me the pleasure of some fine company from my fellow hillgoers, a good number of whom braved the gusts and shared the craic on the 29th. Slainte to you all.

STS Tooling Competition Saturday 8th October

The winners!

Dennis on his way to being the only person to complete Kev Shield's tough finals route.

Marianne on her way to winning the ladies competition - a strong performance which would have given her joint 2nd place in the mens!

Louise making the big moves on the first half of the finals route.

We always look forward to the Scottish Tooling Series round here at the Ice Factor. This time we had a full house of 60 competitors which gave a good buzz to the event without feeling crowded. Everyone tackled the 15 qualifying problems set around the building by Kev Shields and Karen McIntyre plus our own staff, and as usual there was a great supportive atmosphere.

Full results can be found at the STS Website

A righteous celebration followed up in the bar, with local band The Shine keeping us entertained. On balance, we think it's probably a good thing that our bar manager wouldn't let some of the competitors ski down the stairs!

We look forward to seeing folk again at the next round in a couple of weeks at Glenmore Lodge, and out on the hill as soon as the season begins.

Winter Is Coming...

Here at the Ice Factor we're all starting to get psyched for the winter season again - it certainly doesn't feel like summer up here any more, with a bite in the air already and the hills starting to take on the purples and browns of Autumn. With that in mind, here's something you can enjoy with us to get you stoked too...

STS Dry Tooling Competition

We'll be hosting the first round of this annual competition this year. It isn't just an elite competition (although the 'great and the good' do often join in!), everyone who can safely weild an axe and effect a belay is welcome to come and give it a go. Whatever your level, we reckon you'll have never been so pumped in your life by the end of the day, it's great training for winter steepness.
Our sponsors Grivel are giving it their support and there will be Grivel and Scarpa gear available for hire on the day if you don't have your own shiny things to play with.
You can register to compete at http://www.scottishtoolingseries.co.uk/2011/09/sts2011-round-one-ice-factor/
Of course, if you'd rather come and watch you're very welcome. There is no entry fee to spectate and the cafe and bar will be open for public use - and for a party afterwards!
Please note that there will be no availability for rock & ice climbing other than the comp on this day as with up to 60 competitors in the building there just isn't space!

Indoor Ice

We run our ever-popular Hit the Ice courses most days at 2.15pm. This is a 2 hour intro to ice climbing and is suitable for adults wanting to move onto steeper ground or make the step from rock onto ice. Prices for this are currently £48 per person, which includes hire of all technical gear, and this can be booked by phone on 01855 831100.

If you are already a competent ice climber (we ask that people have climbed at least Scottish III or WI2 or have completed at least one session in the ice wall previously) then you can come and use the freezer for your own training. A 2 hour session costs £25 for a non-member, or £20 for a member. You may want to think about taking out a pass if you are in the area for a while - 1 month is just £35 and this includes an ice session each week as well as unlimited rock climbing. It is worth booking in advance for ice sessions to make sure there is room for you to climb!

Outdoor Courses

If you're keen to get into the winter wonderland that is Scotland this year, or are looking to move onto steeper ground then give us a shout. We'll be running skills courses and guiding throughout the winter. Drop us an email on info@ice-factor.co.uk if you would like further info on what we are able to offer.

Aonach Eagach Traverse (Tuesday 23rd February)

Tuesday saw Isi, Dan, Chris and freelance instructor Lorraine making the most of the last day of the most recent settled spell in a traverse of the Aonach Eagach ridge above Glen Coe. Leaving the valley on a bitterly cold morning, we ascended into glorious sunshine and alpine-feeling conditions on the ridge. There was a well-beaten track of compacted snow and the rock where showing was dry and almost warm, making the route feel pretty friendly on this occasion.

Quite a few other folk were up enjoying the sun too - probably for the best given the change in weather and conditions since then! It's been a busy few days on centre with lots of guided groups opting to give the hills a miss and hit the ice wall, and for once I don't think any of the Ice Factor crew have begrudged being indoors at all! We're all just storing up sleep for when the snow settles and the sun returns...

4 Day Winter Skills

Today was the last day of The Ice Factor's 4 day winter skills course led by Guy. This time the places were taken by members of the London Met Police Mountaineering Club, John, Dennis, Kirsty, David, Neil and Alice. They had great alpine weather on the first 3 days and real Scottish weather on the last. The group ranged from first time winter walkers through to old, rusty mountaineers. The first day was about safe movement around the mountains, weather and avalanche conditions, this was done on Buachaille Etive Beag (2 Munros). Day 2 we looked at ice axe arresting, moving safely on steeper ground, more weather and avalanche up at Aonach Mor. We then walked up to the summit (1 Munro). Day 3 was navigation day spent up in the Mamores (1 Munro), Day 4 was their day which they route planned and led throughout, putting together all the skills learnt over the last 3 days, this was done also in the Mamores (1 Corbett). So 4 Munroes, 1 Corbett and lots of skills learnt.

South Gully & Green Eyes

Today, Jamie B & Isi went to Beinn Udlaidh for some low-level ice action and climbed South Gully of The Black Wall (IV) and then Green Eyes (IV,4). Both were in good condition - great neve, ice a little brittle in places but sound, cornices already broken through. Teams on lots of other things - including Peter Pan & the Direct and Quartzvein Scoop. Just another blue-sky day in the highlands...