Busy at Dunkeld

Ewan leading The Groove VS5a***

Yesterday Conor, Davie and Isi went with local climbers Ewan and Alex to Dunkeld to try and remember how rock climbing works after a few months of snow and ice. The forecast for sun was proved correct and Polney crag was busy with climbers enjoying the warm, dry rock. The aim for the day for most of us was to get some mileage back on rock and have a chilled out day in the sun, and this was certainly achieved! Fortunately for us Ewan was pretty tired after a day of hard routes at Huntly's Cave on Saturday, and kept his trainers on for most of the day, otherwise I think we'd have more sore muscles today! We climbed Bollard Buttress Direct (Sev 4a - doesn't get any stars and we could see why not!), Cuticle Crack (Sev), Twisting Rib (VDiff), Holly Tree Groove (VDiff), Kestrel Crack (Sev), Ivy Crack (VS4b), The Groove (VS5a), The End (VS4c,5a) and a combination of bold pitches linking Crash Test Dummies (E35c) to the top pitch of Barefoot Beginnings (E25b). A great day back on rock - bring on the summer now! A few more pictures to follow later...

Weekend of climbing

Easy does it.

Jamie B was planning a long hike into a remote bothy and even more remote route, but freezing levels have been high for several days so he and Jamie H decided that Aonach Mor east face was a better (higher) bet. Temperatures hovered around freezing all day but snow and ice was mostly in good condition and they were spared the collapsing cornices that had caused a bit of grief over the weekend.

JB has a dodgy wrist at the moment so is keeping the grades low and trying to avoid pulling down too hard. Left Twin (II) and Tunnel Vision (III) fitted the bill and with numerous other Fort William characters kicking about a relaxed and sociable day was had. Forecast to stay mild until the weekend, but with a dry thaw we hopefully shouldnt lose too much snow.

Mild & Misty Ballachulish Horseshoe

Isi went for a wander up Schoolhouse Ridge today on the Ballachulish Horseshoe. Mild and misty conditions today, and soft soggy snow up to the tops. Slippery underfoot with wet snow not bonded to the ground under it - crampons were a bit superfluous. Folk who've been on the Buachaille and in Stob Coire nan Lochan today reported avalanches so be careful out there... Should be good with a re-freeze though, the turf is only thawed on the top - still solid underneath.
Meanwhile Ali and Conor went up to Nevisrange to play in the snow. Sledging, snowmen and attempted snow angels were on the cards. We all spend so much time thinking about grades, skills and routes - sometimes it is good just to go and remember that snow is really good fun!

Beating the Weatherman

Despite forecasts of warm, wet air and high avalanche risk, Jamie and Jack took a chance on Beinn an Dothaidh and found Stairway to Heaven (III) in excellent condition with turf well frozen and lots of ice about. It stayed cold and the wind and rain never materialised - nice when they get it wrong. However avalanche hazard was in evidence with a big load of debris at the bottom of West Gully, and fresh slab forming at the top. Dont go near it folks! Nobody else about but loads to go at at one of JB's favourite crags.

Wall to wall sunshine on Beinn Dearg & Beinn Alligin

Isi has been stomping the hills in the north west for the last couple of days in glorious sunshine. On Monday Beinn Dearg and Meall nan Ceapraichean (pics above are views from Beinn Dearg) via the Cadh an Amadain to get into the sun quickly. Looks like some of the lines on West Buttress are complete, and some people had been up Inverlael Gully recently. The lines to the right of the pass have water ice in the back of them, but not much snow to speak of. 

On Tuesday it was sunny again, so a ridge walk was in order to make the most of the vitamin D. Beinn Alligin was not looking super wintery but I decided to check it out anyway. Although I didn't put my crampons on, the team ahead of me wore theirs and there were some sections that would definitely have been easier with them on! The Horns gave good sport where the snow had melted and refrozen into hard ice the previous day. Snow was mostly firm, but there is some transportation going on up there, and isolated patches of windslab. It looks like both Liathach and An Teallach ridges have a good cover of snow just now too.

Aonach Mór in the sun

On Friday Conor and Andy, still psyched from their day on The Ben, went to Aonach Mor and took advantage of the Gondola to get nice and high nice and fast. Their plan was to do Left Twin. They found it was in great condition with good ice and nice firm Néve. The only down side to it was we were out of the sun!

"COLD NOW!"

They were at the top by noon and relaxed in the sun for a wee bit while we figured out what to do next. Andy didn't feel up to any more leading so he left it to Conor to decide. He chose to do White Shark which he'd had his eye on for a while. So it was back down Easy Gully and over to the route.

The first section was fine but on starting up the second steeper pitch the sun which had brought them so much joy that morning had begun to take its toll. The ice was getting soft and crumbly leaving Conor well above his gear with nothing to get a screw in. Conor took it in his stride and pushed on finding better ice and some bomber gear higher up. It was plain sailing from there with only a rather large cornice (another first for the guys) left to deal with. After a bit of digging a deep breath and little style Conor dragged himself over the top. It must have been quite a sight from above. Bags packed they raced down for the last gondola getting there in under 30 minutes, its amazing what you can do to avoid the long walk down.